CULTURE

going nutty for georgian fare

By Simone Kozuharov

Staff Writer

Georgian fare is famous throughout the former Soviet Union for its rich assortment of exotic tastes, fine wines and endless toasts, making ethnic Georgian food a must for gourmets and amateurs alike.

It would be difficult to find a better place than Cafe Rioni, really more of a resteraunt, to experience authentic Georgian food and flare. Tucked away at the end of a small driveway in a basement location, this cozy eatery is a jewel in St. Petersburg's restaurant crown.

No Georgian experience would be complete without sampling the khachapuri (70 rubles, $2.45). A delicious cheese-filled bread, this appetizer is a staple on most Georgian tables. Rioni's version is particularly delightful, even for those who are not fond of cheese. The cheese is mild, surrounded by a thin layer of warm bread. It could be considered the Georgian answer to pizza. It is served as a round loaf, cut in fours and the portion is large enough to split four ways.

Salads also shouldn't be missed at Rioni. They are a great accompaniment to any dish or just simply the tasty lavash bread (10 rubles, 35 cents). The eggplant with nuts salad (115 rubles, $4.05) is a particular standout, featuring the mingling flavors of eggplant, nuts and spices. The result is a spread-like texture, with chunks of eggplant and topped with pomegranate seeds.

Another diner said her starter, the signature "Rioni" salad (100 rubles, $3.50), was "very nourishing", but slightly salty. She also mentioned that this is typical of Georgian food and is easily solved by a glass of Borzhomi.

Borzhomi, the famous Georgian mineral water said to have been favoured by the famous Georgian Joseph Stalin, is known for its promotion of good health. It is a mild mineral water, not too salty or carbonated, and a nice accompaniment at lunch or dinner.

By the time one finishes the khachapuri and salad, washed down with Borzhomi, it is difficult to even contemplate a main course. However, to experience the full essence of a Georgian meal, a main course is a necessary addition.

The adzhapsandali, a Georgian stew, arrived boiling and continued to boil for minutes. "I was impressed that it was steaming for quite a while when it was brought," a guest said. It was served in a large clay bowl on an elaborate tower of two plates and a flat board. It can be ordered with either veal (240 rubles, $8.42) or pork (220 rubles, $7.71), both tender, and contains tomatoes, green beans, eggplant and two different types of onions. It is perfect for a cold, snowy day.

It would be difficult to walk away unsatisfied after all that, but for those with insatiable appetites, there is dessert to think about. Rioni serves Georgian baklava, a heavenly departure from its Greek cousin which shares the same name but different ingredients. Perfect with tea or coffee, this sweet slipper bread is filled with nuts and berries. They may not be able to serve it at lunchtime, but the server said it can usually be ordered in the evenings.

Rioni is a great place to relax with friends, celebrate a special occasion or have an intimate meal. A quick glance around the restaurant will reveal most diners are there for just those reasons.

The lunchtime clientele includes everyone from businessmen in suites to mothers with toddlers. In the evening, couples have been known to spontaneously get up and dance hand in hand - despite Rioni's lack of a dance floor.

After one visit to Rioni, named for a river in Georgia's west, it is difficult not to return over and over. Clearly, most of the restaurant's customers feel the same way: Rioni has been in business for 15 years.

"I really feel like I'm in Georgia," said a guest. "If you open the window, there'll be Georgian scenery, like the mountains in the background, the sun is shining, it's warm - not like snowy Russia," she imagined. "And that there would be goats walking around the yard."

Like Georgia's beautiful landscape, folk scenery and warm, hospitable people, Cafe Rioni beckons its visitors to return again and again. And with so much to offer, it would be very difficult to resist the invitation.

Rioni, 24 Shpalernaya Ulitsa, Tel: 273 3261. Menu available in Russian and Englsih. Credit cards not accepted. Meal for two, 865 rubles ($30.35) not including alcohol.

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