Tradition in a pie
Born in 1968, Vasily Kovalenko, the head chef at Demidov Restaurant, started his career more than 16 years ago. Having previously worked in different cafes and restaurants in St. Petersburg, he was recruited by Demidov two years ago. Demidov, which specializes in classic Russian cuisine, consists of two rooms and an alcove, and accommodates up to 80 people. As head chef, Kovalenko manages 15 people working in two shifts. After graduating from high school, Kovalenko received his training at culinary school. But he says cooking was not his childhood dream. "I just didn't have any choice," he laughs. "When my parents went to work, they said that dinner should be ready by the time they came back." Now, Kovalenko doesn't often cook at home. "My family likes it when I cook, but they don't like to wash the dishes after," he complains. "When I cook I don't want to think about anything else besides cooking. I don't pay attention to how many forks or plates are being used. And sometimes I am in danger of having no clean dishes left... Anyway, when I am in the mood or on holiday I cook something for my family and friends." For Kovalenko, cooking at home and cooking at the restaurant are two completely different activities. When with his friends at home, the quality of the food is not so important. He can cook a plain meal, like cold boiled pork, and simply enjoy his friends' company. At the restaurant, however, the food should be exquisite and meet Demidov's high standards. Having previously worked in a nightclub, Kovalenko says that people come to nightclubs just to have quick snack before going out, while clients come to restaurants for a good dinner. At Demidov, with its old-Russian cuisine, antique interiors and gypsy music, sterlet and roast bear's meat are the most popular choices. Kovalenko found it difficult to name the cuisines he most prefers. "Every cuisine is a mixture of different cuisines that have deeply influenced one another for centuries," he said. "That's why, besides Russian and Italian cuisine, I like fusion as well." But for now, Kovalenko is happy to make food in the old-fashioned Russian way.
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