Italian enigma
Parmezanoff // 16 Stolyarny Pereulok // Tel: 314 3253 // Open daily 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. // Menu in Russian and English // Dinner for two with alcohol 1,774 rubles ($53) By Tobin Auber
Staff Writer
This compact Italian eatery is something of a mystery. Stolyarny Pereulok and the surrounding Kolomna neighborhood in general aren’t known for their upscale, lavishly decorated restaurants, so it’s a little off the beaten track. When visited for lunch on a workday it was empty and the waiter appeared somewhat suprised to see us as he wandered about, cleaning cloth and plastic bottle of cleaning fluid in hand, giving the tables a once over. Nevertheless, Parmezanoff had more of the feel of an evening venue, and would perhaps make for a decent place to dine on your way to or from the Mariinsky. It’s not large, comprising just one room and a grand total of seven tables, but the mirror right across one wall removes any sense of claustrophobia. The decor is done out in off-white yellows and golds, in danger of slipping openly into the gaudy and garish, particularly in view of the vast gilded sun-shaped clock and the equally garish golden mirror frame on another wall. The light and airy impression created by the color scheme and uncluttered windows, however, is a touch marred by some very heavy black metal lamp and chandelier fittings. The pan pipes muzak playing on the stereo was also a step in the wrong direction. The menu is extensive and, while the restaurant doesn’t pretend to be staffed by native Italian chefs, rumor has it that an Italian worked with the Russian cooks in the run-up to Parmezanoff’s opening. He seems to have done a good job. We started with a tomato soup with sweet pepper and white bread (195 rubles, $5.80) and a chicken salad in a honey balsamic sauce (310 rubles, $9.25). The soup was fresh, bursting with plum tomatoes and olive oil without being too greasy. It came “pre-parmesaned,” with fresh shavings of the cheese already in it, which was something of a surprise, but then perhaps in view of the restaurant’s name it was only to be expected. The sauce for the chicken salad, which was essentially a Caesar without the crutons, had a very pleasant bite to it, and again the ingredients were very fresh. The “sheep-cheese and spinach” tortellini (355 rubles, $10.60) that followed made for a very large portion and is definitely recommended for those who like their food rich and heavy. Those looking for something on the lighter side and concerned about their figures should take heed. Much the same could be said of the meat lasagne (315 rubles, $9.40) — packed with taste and perfect if you’re looking for a very hearty meal, but to be treated with caution if you just want a snack. Caution didn’t prevail at our table, however, as we also ordered a Tuscany pizza (299 rubles, $9). Again, it was perhaps a tad heavy for some tastes but entirely adequate – a summary that is fitting for Parmezanoff in general.
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