THE DISH: Il Konti

Il Konti//4/6, 17th Line, Vasilyevsky Island//Tel. 325 5202//www.ilkonti.ru//Open 9 a.m. until the last customer leaves//Menu in Russian and English//Dinner for two 1,785 ($55)

By Elizabeth Rattey

The St. Petersburg Times

Published: August 8, 2012 (Issue # 1721)

Feasting among ruins

Il Konti is a bright bite of Italy hidden on a corner of drizzly Petersburg. After bringing his Italian flare to the taste buds of diners in both Moscow and the northern capital and opening several venues in the former, last November Giuseppe Conti finally opened his first eatery in St. Petersburg.

Il Konti’s décor leaves no doubt in the mind as to what kind of restaurant this is: The white walls of the two fairly-sized dining rooms are brushed with images of Italian landscapes and seascapes as seen through the arches of a classic villa. The only thing missing is a soft breeze to rustle through the acrylic trees.

This elegant view is contrasted — and complimented — by strategically chosen parts of wall that have “crumbled” to reveal patches of red brick. The idea of structures in disrepair is nothing foreign to St. Petersburg itself, and this decorative detail — in addition to singing a very Italian tune of ruins — is fondly reminiscent of neglected buildings that can be found around every street bend. These brick stretches are also exposed on the chiseled square columns that stand throughout the establishment and help to break up the space, making the table-filled rooms feel more intimate and the dining experience a little more private. The plant-laden windowsills and low lighting also help, while the radio-station music playing in the background, quite frankly, does not.

A hefty basket of thin, smoky focaccia with basil (60 rubles, $1.85) and an additional sprinkle of Parmesan for 25 rubles ($0.75) gave us something to chew on while sipping a glass of Nero d’Avola Nobili di Trinacria wine for 160 rubles ($5), one of two reds offered by the glass, and mors (70 rubles, $2.15) as we waited for starters. First out was the sliced beef with Mozzarella and a Dijon sauce for 255 rubles ($7.85), which left more to be desired from the next dishes. The three modestly-sized slices of meat lacked flavor, and the sauce failed to cover up the blandness of the unseasoned meat and infamously tasteless cheese.

The cream of spinach soup (215 rubles, $6.60) was more flavorful, and satisfyingly rich in spinach. The boiled quail eggs that were halved and bobbing in the soup may be a classic addition to the dish, but made the cream soup a little heavier than necessary.

Mixed lettuce, sun-dried tomatoes, red bell pepper, baby potatoes, roast beef and cream cheese came together to make an original and filling house salad for 285 rubles ($8.80). The roast beef suspiciously resembled that from the meat appetizer, but fared much better flavor-wise with the medley of vegetables in a light, tart dressing. The combination of textures from the ingredients, especially the potatoes, which were first boiled and then gently sautéed in oil, was to the salad’s benefit and made the starter feel almost like a sandwich due to all of its hearty components.

Il Konti’s entrée menu offers a wide variety of fish, meat, risotto and pasta dishes with prices for fish ranging from 450 to 750 rubles ($13.85 to $23.10). The average price for risotto is around 400 rubles ($12.30), while pasta dishes go from 225 to 430 rubles ($7 to $13.25). Most meat dishes go for about 500 rubles ($15.40) with the T-bone steak topping the price list at 1,420 rubles ($43.75).

Spaghetti with shrimps and arugula (430 rubles, $13.25) looked festive and delicious and looks did not deceive. The pasta was al dente with a nice mixture of seafood and vegetables. Although the menu description only mentioned shrimp (of which there was one big one and another baby one hidden among the noodles) and arugula, the dish contained a pleasant surprise in the form of cherry tomatoes and scallops.

The pasta Carbonara (285 rubles, $8.80) was perfectly peppered and not too heavy on the sauce, but failed presentation-wise in comparison to the other entrée. The sprig of basil did little to brighten up the nest of pasta with bacon and cream.

The overall dining experience was relaxing with attentive and helpful service. The only brief disturbance was caused by another guest, who thought it appropriate to crack out a can of hairspray in the middle of the nearly empty room and pump up her wilting do.