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THE DISH: Arka

27 Bolshaya Konyushennaya\\Tel. 240 2496\\Open daily 9 a.m. 6 a.m.\\Menu in Russian and English\\Dinner for two with alcohol: 2,810 rubles ($93)

Published: February 20, 2013 (Issue # 1747)


Archingly hip

Regulars on the Petersburg restaurant scene will be familiar with a new type of hip eatery that typically becomes popular with the local young professional and creative class. Nobodys quite sure whether these places are bars, restaurants or music venues its all part of a cover-all-bases approach. After all, why limit yourself to being a restaurant when you can be all things to all people?

Arka Bar and Grill, which opened last summer on Bolshaya Konyushennaya Ul., falls squarely into this category. Issues of originality aside, this is no bad thing in itself, especially as Arka has a couple of extra cards up its sleeve to set it apart from the competition. The first is the originality of its layout. Entering from the street, you pass into a long narrow space with a high arched ceiling lit by spotlights. This bottleneck-like space that leads to the large dining area at the back is lined by a 13-meter long bar, and is in fact an archway that once linked the street to the buildings interior courtyard hence the name.

The second is the creative way in which the designers have used what is already an unorthodox space. The dining area is divided into two levels and makes judicious use of exposed brickwork balanced with Scandinavian-style wood paneling, all accentuated by subtle lighting.

Chef Yevgeny Khitrovs menu emphasizes simplicity and is focused on grilled meats, soups and salads. Vegetarians will find little on offer here, however, as even the salads allow little room for maneuver. This required one diner to make some compromises when it came to starters. As it turned out, her only real criticism of the smoked cod salad with roasted beetroot and new potatoes (360 rubles, $12) was that it was rather Russian.

Although the salad didnt quite hit the mark, Arka unexpectedly raised the bar with two selections from the soup menu both chosen at the urging of the waiter. As it happens, the inventive soups are a very good reason to eat at Arka. The cream soup with Jerusalem artichoke and smoked salmon (380 rubles, $12.60) is a twin-flavored delight, the tiny morsels of salmon providing a sharp counterpoint to the delicate notes of the melt-in-the-mouth artichoke. The delectable mushroom cappuccino soup with Borodinsky bread (360 rubles, $12) should also be an essential choice.

The seafood shashlyks of squid, scallop and prawn (340 rubles, $11.30) came on a slab of black slate, accompanied by a green chili sauce. Though perfectly grilled, the morsels of seafood were served three apiece on two miniature skewers and were disappointingly bland. Better value for money was the grilled sea bream (680 rubles, $22.50), which comes with a medley of baby corn, chili pepper and pickled onions. Arka offers novel variations on side dishes new potatoes with mint (160 rubles, $5.30), for example but in general the sense was that, soups apart, our choices failed to deliver on their promise. Visitors may be better advised opting for a steak (1400 rubles, $47) or a shashlyk meal for two (1100 rubles, $37). House red wine starts at 240 rubles ($8) per glass.

The service is informal, verging on eager our waiter got ahead of himself at one point by removing a spoon from the table shortly before the soup had arrived. But in general this can only be a good thing. The question remains, however, whether Arka can be all things to all people. On this evidence, it seems like its a tricky balancing act to maintain.





 


ALL ABOUT TOWN

Wednesday, Oct. 1


The St. Petersburg International Innovation Forum 2014 kicks off today at Lenexpo, where it will be presenting the latest and greatest ideas until Oct. 3. Focusing on economic development and the decisions and measures necessary to encourage development in Russias most important industries, the event is a possibility to discuss the innovations currently available in a variety of fields.


Representatives of the Russian and international media industries arrive in St. Petersburg for the first ever International Media Forum being hosted by the city until Oct. 10. With a variety of events on tap, including workshops, lectures and film screenings, the event plans to reemphasize the citys reputation as the countrys culture capital and as an emerging market and location for the visual arts.



Thursday, Oct. 2


The celebration of the bicentennial of the birth of Mikhail Lermontov continues with todays free exhibition in the citys Lermontov Library at 19 Liteiny Prospekt. Titled Under the Rustling Wings, the temporary exhibition will feature the costumes and scenery used in the 1917 production of Lermontovs play The Masquerade, which he wrote in 1835 when he was only 21 years old.



Friday, Oct. 3


Learn more about how to manage and evaluate employee performance during SPIBAs Human Resources Committee meeting this morning on Employee Assessment: Global and Local Trends. Starting at 9:30 a.m., the discussion will touch on such topics as the partnership between HR and business, reliable assessment strategies and more, with Tatiana Andrianova, the head of the SHL Russia and CIS branch in St. Petersburg, as the featured guest. Confirm your participation by Oct. 2 by emailing office@spiba.ru or calling 325 9091.


AmChams Procurement Committee Meeting is at 9 a.m. this morning in their office in the New St. Isaac Office Center on Ulitsa Yakubovicha.



Saturday, Oct. 4


Wine and cheese lovers will get their chance to revel during Scandinavia Country Club and Spas Wine Market Weekend. Going on today and tomorrow, wining diners can listen to live music, take part in culinary classes and, of course, sample a variety of fine wines from around the world. The cost of admission is 400 rubles ($10.30) for adults and 200 rubles ($5.15) for children.



Sunday, Oct. 5


Look for the latest fall fashions at the Autumn Market today in Freedom Anticafe at 7 Kazanskaya Ulitsa. The minimarket plans to offer clothes more flattering than the puffy jackets that are a staple of the citys cold-weather fashion, while offering the same amount of protection from the biting winds blowing off of the Baltic.



Monday, Oct. 6


SKA St. Petersburg, the citys KHL affiliate, welcomes Slovakian club HC Slovan in a match-up tonight at the Ice Palace near the Prospekt Bolshevikov metro station. The puck drops at 7:30 p.m. and tickets can be purchased on the clubs website or in person at either the arenas box office or the clubs merchandise store on Nevsky Prospekt.



Tuesday, Oct. 7


Learn more about Russias energy industry at the St. Petersburg Energy Forum that begins today and runs through Oct. 10. Attracting industry experts and political and business representatives, the forum plans to welcome more than 350 plus companies and their representatives to discuss the future of Russias largest economic sector.



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