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THE DISH: Arka

27 Bolshaya Konyushennaya\\Tel. 240 2496\\Open daily 9 a.m. 6 a.m.\\Menu in Russian and English\\Dinner for two with alcohol: 2,810 rubles ($93)

Published: February 20, 2013 (Issue # 1747)


Archingly hip

Regulars on the Petersburg restaurant scene will be familiar with a new type of hip eatery that typically becomes popular with the local young professional and creative class. Nobodys quite sure whether these places are bars, restaurants or music venues its all part of a cover-all-bases approach. After all, why limit yourself to being a restaurant when you can be all things to all people?

Arka Bar and Grill, which opened last summer on Bolshaya Konyushennaya Ul., falls squarely into this category. Issues of originality aside, this is no bad thing in itself, especially as Arka has a couple of extra cards up its sleeve to set it apart from the competition. The first is the originality of its layout. Entering from the street, you pass into a long narrow space with a high arched ceiling lit by spotlights. This bottleneck-like space that leads to the large dining area at the back is lined by a 13-meter long bar, and is in fact an archway that once linked the street to the buildings interior courtyard hence the name.

The second is the creative way in which the designers have used what is already an unorthodox space. The dining area is divided into two levels and makes judicious use of exposed brickwork balanced with Scandinavian-style wood paneling, all accentuated by subtle lighting.

Chef Yevgeny Khitrovs menu emphasizes simplicity and is focused on grilled meats, soups and salads. Vegetarians will find little on offer here, however, as even the salads allow little room for maneuver. This required one diner to make some compromises when it came to starters. As it turned out, her only real criticism of the smoked cod salad with roasted beetroot and new potatoes (360 rubles, $12) was that it was rather Russian.

Although the salad didnt quite hit the mark, Arka unexpectedly raised the bar with two selections from the soup menu both chosen at the urging of the waiter. As it happens, the inventive soups are a very good reason to eat at Arka. The cream soup with Jerusalem artichoke and smoked salmon (380 rubles, $12.60) is a twin-flavored delight, the tiny morsels of salmon providing a sharp counterpoint to the delicate notes of the melt-in-the-mouth artichoke. The delectable mushroom cappuccino soup with Borodinsky bread (360 rubles, $12) should also be an essential choice.

The seafood shashlyks of squid, scallop and prawn (340 rubles, $11.30) came on a slab of black slate, accompanied by a green chili sauce. Though perfectly grilled, the morsels of seafood were served three apiece on two miniature skewers and were disappointingly bland. Better value for money was the grilled sea bream (680 rubles, $22.50), which comes with a medley of baby corn, chili pepper and pickled onions. Arka offers novel variations on side dishes new potatoes with mint (160 rubles, $5.30), for example but in general the sense was that, soups apart, our choices failed to deliver on their promise. Visitors may be better advised opting for a steak (1400 rubles, $47) or a shashlyk meal for two (1100 rubles, $37). House red wine starts at 240 rubles ($8) per glass.

The service is informal, verging on eager our waiter got ahead of himself at one point by removing a spoon from the table shortly before the soup had arrived. But in general this can only be a good thing. The question remains, however, whether Arka can be all things to all people. On this evidence, it seems like its a tricky balancing act to maintain.





 


ALL ABOUT TOWN

Wednesday, Dec. 17


Although the next trade event at Lenexpo convention center isnt until January, the center is playing host to Monet to Cezanne: The French Impressionists, an art show that brings 19th-century art classics to life. Using state-of-the-art technology, the show takes the work of the French masters and adds another dimension to them using light and shadow.



Thursday, Dec. 18


Improve your English and knowledge of British culture during todays FORM lesson at the British Book Center. These free English lessons with a native speaker elaborate not only on grammar particulars but cultural topics as well. Todays event will discuss the BBC Two documentary Victorian Farm Christmas.



Friday, Dec. 19


Test your mastery of parlor games during Game Evening at the British Book Center. Learn how to play a variety of classic, mentally challenging games and use your newly acquired skills to crush weaker opponents. The event beings at 5 p.m.



Saturday, Dec. 20


The citys Babushkina Park on Prospekt Obukhovskoy Oborony will be invaded by dozens of rocking-and-rolling Santa Clauses during todays Santa Claus Parade. Not only will they parade through the park but there will also be competitions amongst the festively-clad participants and a musical master class. There will also be a prize for the best-dressed Santa Claus.


Stock up your record collection during the Vinyl Christmas Sale at the KL10TCH bar on Konyushennaya ploschad today. Spend the afternoon perusing the records for sale while listening the classic, clean sound of records spinning out hits from a variety of musical genres and time periods.



Sunday, Dec. 21


TheZenit St. Petersburg basketball team returns to the northern capital this evening for a matchup with Krasny Oktyabr, a Volgograd-based basketball club. Tickets for the game, which tips off at 6 p.m. this evening, can be purchased on the clubs website or at their arena, Sibur Arena, on Krestovsky island.


Satisfy your sugar cravings during Sweet New Year, an ongoing seasonal festival at the Raduga shopping center. Each weekend of December will welcome hungry visitors to taste hundreds of different kinds of desserts made from a plethora of sweet treats. Workshops are open to visitors and seasonal gifts can also be purchased for those rushing to finish their New Year shopping.



Monday, Dec. 22


Pick out the latest fashions as holiday gifts for loved ones or as early presents for yourself during the Christmas Design Sale at Kraft on Obvodny Kanal, starting on Dec. 20 and continuing through Dec. 27. Designer clothes will be on sale every day of the week or you can buy something more festive to decorate the home while sipping on hot coffee and perusing the various master classes.



Tuesday, Dec. 23


Meet Arctic explorers Fedor Konukhov and Viktor Simonov during SPIBAs and Capital Legal Services event Arctic Expedition this morning in the Mertens House business center at 21 Nevsky Prospekt. The meeting will discuss the explorers ongoing eco-social project and how companies can use the project as a unique marketing opportunity. Email office@spiba.ru by Dec. 22 if you wish to attend.



To have your event included in All About Town, email tot@sptimes.ru



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