valaam: centuries of rest for the weary
by Larisa Doctorow
Staff Writer
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For The St. Petersburg Times
A tree bending over Lake Ladoga, the deepest freshwater lake in Europe.
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Among the most popular inland waterway routes from St Petersburg is the trip to the monastery island of Valaam, 220 kilometers to the northeast, in Lake Ladoga. The islands of the Valaam archipelago have fjord-like shores covered with forests. In the 19th century, Russian writers and artists were drawn to Valaam for its exquisite natural beauty. In 1866 Tchaikovsky lived on Valaam for several weeks and wrote his Second Symphony looking out at its lush forests and still water. Poets said that the islands possessed the best views in Russia, and students of the St. Petersburg Academy of Fine Arts spent summers there. The landscape artist Shishkin was among those who celebrated the archipelago in well known canvasses that now hang in the State Russian Museum and Tretyakov Gallery. This pristine glory may seem exaggerated to today's jaded tourists. But when you sit on a sun-lit terrace on Valaam island some fifty meters above granite rock, and look out at the grace and tranquility of the chapel of the Ascension with its white-washed walls and intense lapis lazuli cupola, set against a background of birch trees and silver firs; when you listen to the gentle lapping of the waves and laments of sea-gulls, you will surely agree with the Russian poets and artists of a simpler age. The journey to Valaam begins on the 74 kilometer stretch of the Neva from St. Petersburg river port up to its source in Lake Ladoga. The approach to the lake is marked by a magnificent suspension bridge, the only crossing of the river north of the city. Ladoga is the biggest and also deepest fresh-water lake in Europe, 233 meters at its deepest point. Upon embarking on this vast expanse of water, you lose sight of land for hours and have a sensation of being out at sea. Valaam is the largest of fifty islands comprising the eponymous archipelago, measuring 28 square kilometers. It is known for a microclimate that is explained by the granite base on which it sits. The stone accumulates warmth all summer and then emits heat in the autumn and winter. Accordingly, the local seasons are several months out of sync with the calendar. Winters are very late and mild, but there is snow on the ground from late January until April. Apart from the splendid scenery, religious interest contributes greatly to the attraction of Valaam - and always has. According to church records, two holy fathers, Saints Sergey and Germain, came to the Valaam archipelago from southeast Europe in the tenth century - even before the conversion of Kievan Rus - to prosthletize the pagan Karelian tribes who worshipped the god Vaal. To strengthen the local population's new Christian beliefs, Sergey and Germain commissioned a monastery, the Transfiguration of the Saviour. The monastery eventually became the outpost for territory dominated by Novgorod, and was caught up in the centuries-long struggle between Slavs and Swedes for control of the lucrative trade route connecting the Scandinavian north and Byzantium. Between the 12th and 15th centuries, the monks fought 82 battles with the Swedes. The buildings of the monastery were burned down innumerable times. One conflict wreaked particularly savage destruction at the beginning of the 17th century ended the monastery's existence for 100 years. Then, like the legendary Phoenix, the monastery was resurrected from its ashes under Peter the Great as the surrounding area was taken over by the Russian state. In the 19th century, the monastic community achieved rare prosperity and fame, which made it a magnet for pilgrims from across the Russian Empire. Through laborious effort, the monks transformed the inhospitable barren rocks, that lacked natural topsoil, into an oasis of prosperity. They dug canals to connect the numerous inland lakes, brought soil from the mainland, and planted orchards and vegetable gardens. Their mastery won them awards at international expositions. They built fisheries and dairy farms, engaged in horse-breeding, and established brickworks and stone quarries that served their own needs as well as those of the capitol. Religious tourism grew to such proportions at the end of the 19th century that the Transfiguration of our Saviour Cathedral became too small to accommodate all of the pilgrims and clergy. It was demolished to make way for the larger structure, accommodating 4000 parishioners, that stands there today. In the early 20th century, Valaam had more than 2, 000 monks residing in a number of different orders, each one with its own rules and varying degree of asceticism. The island had a hotel for well-to-do visitors. About 700 tourists arrived each year from abroad. The tsarist family honoured the monastery with ceremonial visits and gifts. This golden age came to an abrupt end in 1917. The monastery suddenly found itself on the Finnish side of the border, with all contacts with Russia cut off. During the interwar years, the number of monks dwindled to a few hundred. But the Valaam monastery was spared the tragic fate of the Russian clergy after the revolution. At the start of Russo-Finnish war in 1939, Soviet planes bombed the monastery and destroyed many buildings. In February 1940, under the cover of night, the monks were evacuated to Finland. Travelling along the frozen lake, they and their 150 cartloads of possessions safely reached the Finnish lines. The survivors founded the New Valaam monastery, which exists to this day on Lake Pappinieme in Northern Finland. The last living monk from that exodus died in 1973 at the age of 107. The history of Valaam over the half century following the war was grim. First it was turned into a convalescent house for Russia's most severely injured war veterans. Six hundred soldiers were brought here and stayed till their deaths. Then it was turned into a tourist complex where people from Leningrad came in large groups to have a good time. Many of the surviving wooden chapels burnt down due to negligence. With the advent of Perestroika, and the revival of the Russian Orthodox Church, efforts were made to establish the monastery of Valaam anew. On December 13, 1989 the first monks returned to Valaam after more than seventy years. The monastery was re-inaugurated by the Russian Orthodox Church in a mass celebrated by Patriarch Alexy II. Pilgrims and tourists also returned. Every summer volunteers flock here to help with the restoration work. The results of these restoration efforts are seen everywhere. The churches, chapels, and hermitages are being returned to life. The island is gradually turning into a marvelous historic, spiritual and cultural monument- again. There are now 160 monks living permanently on the island, in addition to the local population of 500. While monks are busy with their monastic life, the locals fish, smoke their catch and sell it to the tourists. The return journey from St Petersburg takes two nights and permits a full day of sightseeing on the island. Depending on the travel agency, a cruise package costs about $100 per person with full board. Nearly every travel agency in St Petersburg offers reservations on these popular trips. A comfortable fleet of passenger ships built in East Germany during Soviet times plies routes on the inland waterways of the region. They offer single and double cabins, often with air-conditioning, and provide simple, but adequate, meals as well as a satisfactory selection of foreign wines and liquors in addition to the traditional vodkas, all at attractive prices. The cruise ships release tourists for a day of well-organized sightseeing conducted by professionals under license from the monastery. Sturdy walking shoes are recommended, since the morning and afternoon excursions each require between three and fiver kilometers of hiking. At one chapel, there is a demonstration of Russian choral singing including the Valaam tradition of 'a capella.' Women should bring headscarves and wear long skirts or trousers when visiting the churches and chapels. Although Lake Ladoga is generally too cold for comfortable bathing, Valaam's inner lakes are warm and swimmable during summer and there is sufficient free time in the schedule to allow this. Motorboats are available for short trips around the island at negotiable prices. Sailing season runs from May through November.
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