THE DISH: The Real Deal

Freeman’s // 8 Ulitsa Kazanskaya//Tel. 312 0540//8 a.m. – 12 p.m.//Dinner for two with alcohol: 2,240 rubles ($73)

By Allison Geller

The St. Petersburg Times

Published: March 20, 2013 (Issue # 1751)

Freeman’s is one of the more recent additions to the long list of European restaurants scattered across the city. The particular combination of cuisine served in many of these restaurants is probably unknown anywhere else in the world, least of all in Europe, and tend to be a catchall for Russian crowd-pleasers from spaghetti carbonara to cream of mushroom soup.

Located a stone’s throw from the Kazan Cathedral, at first glance Freeman’s resembles most other trendy European-style restaurants in the city — from its preciously unfinished walls to the rectangular slate dishes that seem to be appearing in the city’s fancier eateries.

But within a few minutes of sitting down, it’s evident that Freeman’s is making a quiet effort to set itself apart.

The interior is enhanced by unique touches like the Portuguese wine glasses on the tables and the framed butterfly specimens that decorate the toilets. The wait staff are warm and attentive. Details like the complimentary amuse-bouche — on this occasion, a smoked fish spread on squares of dark bread — confirm that the restaurant places the diner’s palate at the center of the experience.

The real thing that puts Freeman’s a cut above, though, is the food. The dishes, often inspired by traditional combinations, are thoughtfully conceived and executed with quality ingredients.

The foie gras with figs in port (390 rubles, $12.70) was a standout, beautifully presented on the aforementioned chalkboard-like plate. A tower of toast rounds and a mound of fig compote surrounded a slice of silky, house-made foie gras, the trio sprinkled with a few coarse grains of salt. The fig compote was a tad too sweet and threatened to overpower the foie gras, which is a shame, as its subtle flavor and buttery texture provided a much-appreciated moment of gastronomical clarity.

Another bright spot was the tuna with pesto and olive tapenade (350 rubles, $11.40). Slices of thinly-sliced, raw tuna served over a bright, basil-infused tapenade, complimented by a glass of Italian Pinot Grigio (380 rubles, $12.30), were enough to make us believe, if only for a moment, that we were somewhere sunny and far warmer than St. Petersburg.

After contemplating the dish of the day, a parmesan-crusted dorado (350 rubles, $11.40), we took the unsolicited advice of the man dining next to us, who appeared to be a frequent patron, and went with two different takes on scallops (each 350 rubles, $11.40). Comparing chef Dmitry Blinov’s distinctive uses of the same ingredient offered a glimpse of his skill and creativity.

Scallops with chunks of warm pumpkin, orange, and figs were another spot of sun on a blustery March day. The ones accompanied by a foam-like milk chocolate mousse and chestnut cream, though, edged toward the subversive. Both savory and sweet sides of the plate were thoroughly enjoyable in and of themselves, but together, such wildly divergent elements were confusing on the palate. The scallops in each dish, however, were tender and perfectly seared. Blinov clearly knows what he’s doing, and better to err on the side of daring than to churn out monotonous, uninspired dishes.

Dessert – a single, large profiterole with chocolate cream (120 rubles, $3.90) and a white chocolate cake (190 rubles, $6.20) — were pleasant, but unexceptional. The best, and most unexpected, thing about them was that they were free. Between 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. on weekends, any diner who orders a starter and a main course is treated to complimentary coffee and dessert.

Other more unusual features on the Freeman’s menu include a variety of savory tidbits to start out your meal, including tapas-like bites such as artichokes, olive tapenade, and hot peppers stuffed with tuna (all 120 rubles, $3.90), and a refreshingly extensive list of nonalcoholic drinks, including house-made lemonades, mors, and smoothies (100-400 rubles, $3.25-$14.00). Additionally, any of the dishes can reportedly be made vegetarian on request.

The restaurant seems to ask its patrons to savor their dining experience, as the starters and salads are priced the same as the main courses, and are all modestly sized. Small plates, quality ingredients and original re-workings of classic dishes might just be the definition of good food. If it’s now the ideal definition of the European cuisine being served in the city, one can only hope that other restaurants will be quick to adopt it.