Thursday, April 24, 2014
 
Follow sptimesonline on Facebook Follow sptimesonline on Twitter Follow sptimesonline on RSS
MOST READ



PARTNER NEWS



BLOGS



OPINION

 

Перевести на русский Перевести на русский Print this article Print this article

A Trip Down Soviet Culinary Lane

Published: January 15, 2014 (Issue # 1793)


As you wander through the aisles of your local grocery store, you might notice a curious phenomenon: a growing nostalgia for советская кухня (Soviet cooking). Пельмени (meat dumplings) are once again packaged in gray cardboard boxes with faded orange lettering, pastry display cases are filled with слоеные язычки (puff pastries) and the Yeliseyevsky shop on Nevsky Prospekt seeks to emulate the pre-revolutionary shopping experience.

For foreigners who spent time in the Brezhnev-era Soviet Union, this nostalgia might seem a bit misplaced. I would personally like to forget the standard Intourist lunch fare of mystery meat in sauce on overcooked buckwheat groats. Nor do I ever want to stand in line for three hours to buy a half-kilo of greenish tinged колбаса (cold cuts). But the good stuff, when you could get it (достать), really was good. And perhaps it tasted even better because it was a rare treat. Absence makes the heart grow fonder, with people and буженина (cold roast pork).

In any case, here’s a guide to some of Soviet cooking’s Greatest Hits.

First, look for the abbreviation ГОСТ (state standard). Starting in 1925, recipes were developed and assigned state standard numbers to ensure that, say, the докторская колбаса (dietetic baloney — an oxymoron if there ever was one) you bought in Kazan was exactly the same as the stuff you bought in Kiev. And lest you sneer, some of these recipe developers knew what they were doing. The ГОСТ recipe for докторская колбаса includes a bit of cardamom and nutmeg. Who knew?

But beware: ГОСТ is now a marketing tool, and if you read carefully you might find that the ГОСТ on сгущенка (sweetened condensed milk) is actually for safety standards at the factory.

Но не будем о плохом (let’s not talk about bad things). Instead we’ll push our mental shopping cart toward кулинария (delicatessen, deli section), which is a store or section of a grocery store selling ready-to-cook and ready-to-eat food. Here you might want to sample икра (caviar) — not the fish roe, but the thick vegetable puree: кабачковая (squash), баклажанная (eggplant) or грибная (mushroom). Now stores try to make it as close as possible to what one person calls вкус кабачковой икры времён социализма (the taste of squash caviar from the age of socialism).

But probably the tastiest food made from the Soviet recipe file can be found in the выпечка (baked goods) section of your grocery store. Start with some глаголики — sugar cookies in the shape of the letter Г, which used to be called глагол (verb) in the Russian alphabet. Try some шоколадные картошки (chocolate pastry “potatoes”), which are made by mixing cake crumbs with milk, butter, sugar and сгущенка and then rolling the mass in cocoa and sugar. And end with a сочник (from the word сочный — moist), a shortcrust pastry filled with творог (pot cheese) and сметана (sour cream).

You might find yourself agreeing with this old ditty: Каждый школьник знает с парты / Как важны стране стандарты, loosely translated as: Every schoolchild knows the answer! What’s a country without its standards?

Michele A. Berdy, a Moscow-based translator and interpreter, is the author of ‘The Russian Word’s Worth’ (Glas), a collection of her columns.

Also by Michele A. Berdy:

How Are We Feeling Today?

In Good Shape





 


Times Talk

ALL ABOUT TOWN

Thursday, Apr. 24


Learn more about Denmark during the Danish Business Delegation’s visit to SPIBA this evening starting at 5:30 p.m. at the Danish Culture Institute. Danish Consul general Klaus Sorensen will be in attendance and the buffet following a presentation on Danish companies in Russia will be the perfect opportunity to network with the assembled businessmen.


AmCham’s Human Resources Committee Meeting is scheduled for 9 a.m. this morning in their St. Petersburg office. Check their website for more details.



Friday, Apr. 25


Light Music presents the main events for their Cultural Kitchen project at Loft-Project Etagi today. A B2B event that focuses on Finnish food, arts, travel, music and design, the evening will conclude with a dinner by chef Jyrki Tsutsunen and dancing to music by Aino Venna. The event, which began yesterday with presentations by tourism and cultural institutions, concludes today with a preview of Finland’s Flow festival and other musical events. Invitations are available from www.culturalkitchen.fi.



Saturday, Apr. 26


At 6 p.m. this evening, stylist Liliana Modigliani offers 50 simple ways to up your style quotient with beauty tips at the Galeria shopping center on Ligovsky Prospekt. The event is part of the final day of the shopping mall’s Fashion Saturday sales event, this week focusing on top brands located on the ground floor as well as presentation from fashion experts on sprucing up your spring look.



Sunday, Apr. 27


Families shouldn’t miss Childhood Planet 2014, the trade fair that started yesterday and concludes today at LenExpo. Not only will goods and services be provided for children and families but the event hopes to promote Russian brands and eco-friendly products using the latest technology available in the childcare industry.



Monday, Apr. 28


The Hotel Indigo will be the site of SPIBA’s Acting Skills for HR and Other Managers master class this morning starting at 9 a.m. The event will begin with coffee before moving on to the class itself and conclude with a tour of the recently opened hotel. Confirm attendance by Apr. 24.



Tuesday, Apr. 29


Improve your English at the British Book Center’s Interactive English Lesson tonight at 6 p.m. Students at pre-intermediate and intermediate levels are welcome discuss topics that are selected to help learners master the more difficult aspects of English grammar and vocabulary.