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Kroo Cafe: French Twist

Kroo Cafe // 27 Suvorovsky Prospekt // Tel. (906) 273 1111 // Open daily, 8.30 a.m. until midnight // Brunch for two without alcohol 1,200 rubles ($34.50)

Published: February 12, 2014 (Issue # 1797)



  • The more formal of the two dining rooms at Kroo Cafe.
    Photo: Kroo Cafe

Brunch in St. Petersburg falls between the nonexistent and the extravagant — between catch-as-catch-can and the full on splendor of hotel offerings like the champagne brunch at Grand Hotel Europe. A new cafe near Smolny, however, is set to change all that.

Kroo Cafe is owned by Francophile Violetta Kroo with a French expat chef in the kitchen, and offers weekend brunch from 8:30 a.m. until the respectable hour of 4 p.m — a godsend for those waking late on the weekend and in need of eggy sustenance.

Divided into two dining rooms separated by a display of baked goods, the cafe is decorated in calming blues and grays with a pop of color provided by red velvet covered banquettes in the more casual of the two rooms. Rustic yet sophisticated, the vibe is relaxed and welcoming.

The selection of brunch items on offer veers perilously close to the sweet end of the spectrum but there were enough savory items to keep us from turning to the full menu, which features French cuisine with a Russian twist and is available all day long.

Since the chef is French we decided to put his omelet- and quiche-making skills to the test with a feta and farmer’s sausage omelet (190 rubles, $5.46), and a quiche filled with salmon and spinach (190 rubles, $5.46). The diminutive quiche was first out of the kitchen and sat – as everything everywhere seems to do these days — perched atop a round, wooden cutting board covered in butcher’s paper. The tender flaky crust was held together with just enough custard to satisfy, although the portion size left a bit to be desired. A small accompanying dish of mustardy, herbed mayonnaise was a nice touch that added depth to what veered a bit too much toward the bland. The omelet was the platonic ideal of a dish that is, more often than not, served overcooked in most places. While the filling was also on the tame side, it was nonetheless a satisfying bite.

The croissants we had ordered at the start of the meal — one plain, one hazelnut filled — appeared as a separate course after the egg dishes despite our asking that they be delivered with our drinks. Served with a flourish atop an oval metal plate with a change of silverware we, of course, dug in with our hands. The sheen of butter left on our fingertips and the shards of flaky pastry scattered across our laps were the perfect testament to the chef’s mastery of this simple, yet miraculous invention. The slightly salty caramel and hazelnut praline that filled one of the croissants was so good we considered having a second.

We washed the meal down with a latte and a velvety smooth teacup half filled with hot chocolate (150 rubles, $4.31 each), which also arrived atop a sliver oval tray accompanied by a butter cookie and a shot of water. The presentation at Kroo Cafe veers towards the precious, but dispite the twee touches, a morning spent here was a gentle awakening after an indulgent night out that helped smooth the edges off the rest of the day.





 


ALL ABOUT TOWN

Sunday, Dec. 21


The Zenit St. Petersburg basketball team returns to the northern capital this evening for a matchup with Krasny Oktyabr, a Volgograd-based basketball club. Tickets for the game, which tips off at 6 p.m. this evening, can be purchased on the club’s website or at their arena, Sibur Arena, on Krestovsky island.


Satisfy your sugar cravings during Sweet New Year, an ongoing seasonal festival at the Raduga shopping center. Each weekend of December will welcome hungry visitors to taste hundreds of different kinds of desserts. Workshops are open to visitors and seasonal gifts can also be purchased for those rushing to finish their New Year shopping.



Monday, Dec. 22


Pick out the latest fashions as holiday gifts for loved ones or as early presents for yourself during the Christmas Design Sale at Kraft on Obvodny Kanal, starting on Dec. 20 and continuing through Dec. 27. Designer clothes will be on sale every day of the week or you can buy something more festive to decorate the home while sipping on hot coffee and perusing the various master classes.



Tuesday, Dec. 23


Meet Arctic explorers Fedor Konukhov and Viktor Simonov during SPIBA’s and Capital Legal Service’s event “Arctic Expedition” this morning in the Mertens House business center at 21 Nevsky Prospekt. The meeting will discuss the explorers’ ongoing eco-social project and how companies can use the project as a unique marketing opportunity. Email office@spiba.ru by Dec. 22 if you wish to attend.



Wednesday, Dec. 24


The Anglican Church of St. Petersburg we will be holding a Christmas Eve service at 7 p.m. led by Rev Wm. Shepley Curtis of the Episcopal Church. The service will be held at the Swedish Church at 1/3 Malaya Konyushennaya Ulitsa.



To have your event included in All About Town, email tot@sptimes.ru



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